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Title: Slaving away... Post by: dguy on March 09, 2004, 08:33:32 pm Calling all contortionists.... How the heck do you get at the nuts which secure the Muncie's slave cylinder to the mounting bracket?
I might be able to get something on the lower nut from below, but the upper nut is almost completely obscured by the flippin' heat shield. The heat shield is of course held firmly in place by the nut in question. >:( Title: Re:Slaving away... Post by: GoFast85 on March 10, 2004, 09:39:14 am Had the same problem. I just fought with it and played with the heat shield.
Title: Re:Slaving away... Post by: dguy on March 15, 2004, 12:51:05 pm Well apparently you can also just remove the two bolts which fasten the slave's bracket to the tranny. One came out easily, but the other is going to require some serious grunting.
More grunting than I'm comfortable with while the engine is being supported by (mostly) a bottle jack. Title: Re:Slaving away... Post by: aaron88 on March 15, 2004, 03:43:42 pm Can you use heat? Gotta love the heat. Red hot
Aaron . Title: Re:Slaving away... Post by: 2ML67 on March 15, 2004, 09:28:40 pm I think I might of suggested this before but I still believe best way to repair is modify. Why simply loosen bolt when you can upgrade to something like a north star or L67. That way you can replace that rusty old bolt with a shiney new one while your at it.
Title: Re:Slaving away... Post by: dguy on March 16, 2004, 09:07:40 am I think I might of suggested this before but I still believe best way to repair is modify. Why simply loosen bolt when you can upgrade to something like a north star or L67. That way you can replace that rusty old bolt with a shiney new one while your at it. Well if I was ready to do a swap, I'd still need to replace the slave cylinder. Some of us prefer to have three pedals instead of two. :P Title: Re:Slaving away... Post by: dguy on March 28, 2004, 09:32:06 am Well it's out... finally. Heat & elbow grease took care of the bolts holding the bracket to the transmission, more heat finally made the hydraulic fitting decide to release its grip.
To repair, or replace? That is the question. There's a small amount of surface rust at the end of the bore, but nothing that I imagine wouldn't disappear with a little bit of steel wool. I haven't a good idea yet what the rest of the bore looks like--I've only inspected it by shoving the piston back with a screwdriver instead of removing it. Any suggestions? Success/failure stories? The easy way is certainly to just buy a new one, but the easy way isn't always the fun way. ;) (http://pff.hostkansas.com/pffimages/2004-03-28_-_Failed_clutch_slave_cylinder_[1].jpg) (http://pff.hostkansas.com/pffimages/2004-03-28_-_Failed_clutch_slave_cylinder_[2].jpg) Title: Re:Slaving away... Post by: 2ML67 on March 28, 2004, 08:27:25 pm Remove retaining clip remove piston if it will come out as they sometimes build up a ridge. Use honing tool on bore then reassemble with new seal. Been there done that worked out OK.
Title: Re:Slaving away... Post by: dguy on March 29, 2004, 11:45:17 am Remove retaining clip remove piston if it will come out as they sometimes build up a ridge. Use honing tool on bore then reassemble with new seal. Been there done that worked out OK. Thanks Dan. It's looking more and more like a target for rebuilding, as a few replies to a similar thread I posted on PFF are coming in. Especially as it appears to be a GM slave, and not the cast Wagner (aftermarket) one that so many people complain about. |