Ottawa Fiero Club Forum

Finally took off the old insulation which was falling apart any ways. Wondering just how well the metalic stuff works and whether it takes the heat over long periods oif time. Also where is a good spot to buy this stuff. Thanks Dan

I used Dynamat when I did the swap in Kitten's car; purchased it from the Car Audio department at Future Shop.  I guess its reflective side would count as "metallic stuff".   ;D

Interior heat & noise if different, isn't noticably different when compared to the original dirt-filled mat.  I didn't try any before & after tests with either a sound meter or thermometer however.  ;)

It bonded well to the firewall after a good cleaning, and seems to be holding up well after 8,000km or so.  (which includes 200-300km or so each winter)

I checked the Future shop in Belleville and they said they do not sell the stuff. Do you have a part number or any thing I could use to help get some. Thanks Dan

You can go here for a pattern..
http://www.fierosails.com/heatshield.html
click on 'firewall heat shield'
there used to be someone stateside that had those for sale.... although, I can't seem to find my bookmark for it
Sandy

Thanks Sandy but i already made a pattern from the old one before I threw it out, always keep a sheet of thin cardboard around for making patterns. Dan

Future Shop's online site lists the kit I used as Dynamat Extreme Door Kit (10435) (http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&MSCSProfile=3C79F0C7EA3162B2749BCCA9199FD9D11D10A88433F4B8D96D7379741493B5929BAA71FB9CCE1A6D57CA9624BE108FF90BC6C1FC04905EDFD5B128D067EDAB8BE6F83EBF2F285B67AB8C79BF403424502712CA11B77AA3207E2AF9C12742BADFFBF04B09757E12248052F12E6C5DC508B3E591CB3C9F8BDF&sku_id=0665000FS10014617&catid=10918).

Assuming that you cover the firewall from the base of the rear window down to the top of lateral frame re-inforcement, that kit should do two cars.

Thank you sir will get some. Dan

I am guessing at it, but if that stuff is actually specifically made for cars then it will (or should!) have gone thru some pretty tough testing. The big concern is flame spread and smoke generated in anything to do with insulation and cars. I have seen guys using all kinds of stuff including roofing tar for convenience and sound deadening, but in that one unthinkable situation where there IS a fire, you don't want to feed it!

Ever see a cheapo nylon tent in a test-burn? It will make you shudder to think there could be someone inside. It is a jolt. The same general concerns apply for (quite specifically) insulation in cars.

Smoke knocks you out or disables you (it really does, and one 'inhale' does it!) and the heat cooks you before you can act. So choosing stuff that is purpose-made is a very smart move, and of course, the opposite applies too.
Don't go for 'alternate materials' unless you really know the odds and the potential. Car fires are terrifying to watch.

I have experienced smoke inhalation and exposure and it is REALLY, and virtually instantly, debilitating. Most people will NEVER experience that and you want to keep it that way!

Anyway
a word of caution on the material choice; I see lots of talk about bubble wrap foil type insulation for residential applications, and plastic films and that sort of thing. Just be aware that the potential consequences are more than dire.

nuff said.....

gp

I fully agree with Fiero 308 that is why I am looking for insulation that is designed for the intended use. The old stuff was removed partially because it was ugly, mainly because in its condition it was no longer doing what it was designed to do. Dan

One of the things which bothers me the most about the original insulation, is that it's absorbant.  That's just what everyone trying to preserve an old car needs, especially in the Great Wet North.  An open, moisture-holding material up against sheet metal.   ;)



Now you have me curious.  If I can find it I may just subject a leftover scrap of Dynamat to a torch and see what happens...

From what I have found the dynamat stuff is resistant to heat but is designed for the inside of the car on the firewall. I am considering installing the insulatuion on the inside behind the carpet and such and just repaint the firewall with some nice black engine paint. Does any one see a problem with this idea. Dan

Don; I know in the bldg industry there are 'dimensionless' numbers for smoke generated and flame spread rates; so I don't have anything for you to compare to or aim for in any testing.
I would be curious to hear the results however of your torch test; watch for those two things; obviously it will be a bit subjective but it may appear to 'ignite easily' or 'not easily' and you prob will have some comment on the amt of smoke it makes too.

I am not familiar with the product; is it NOT a fibrous mat like the original firewall insulation? ie some sort of closed cell material?
got a pic (maybe a close up?)
gp

Only problem with things like a torch test is it does not take into account prolonged exposure to heat or other factors such as oil contamination over long periods of time. That is why I am thinbking mounting it inside the car and painting the firewall with a high heat glossy black paint to try and reflect some of the heat.
In the past when building street rods the best was to use a sheet of stainless for the firewall and insulate the inside of the car. Dan 

No photos handy I'm afraid; I'll try to remember to take a couple and post them.

It's not fibrous at all.  The best description I can come up with is of a substance similar to the butyl rope adhesive which you would find under a Fiero's roof panel, yet more dense.

Then again you could go for this stuff...... or something similar if there is such a thing.

http://www.coollizard.com/pages/company_info.htm (http://www.coollizard.com/pages/company_info.htm)

Outch
$100+CDN for less that 1 USGallon
Well if it works good ............

well if u still need and my scrap car got it i could give it to u if u pay for shipping