Ottawa Fiero Club Forum

after much thought and reading and one or two bouts of realistic thought, the 3.4 pushrod motor is looking like the best swap candidate for me. I am planning on doing the turbo; (have it) and so will want to rebuild it to suit.  My concern now is: what do I have to do about a clutch?  Flywheel, clutch ass'y, etc etc etc?  I am currently running the 4 spd in my 85 but will be swapping in a 5 spd from a Beretta GTZ (got it already) but don't think I will need two different clutches.  Or will I?
Anyone? All input appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
GP

When I had my 3.4 installed, the machinist reused my '86 flywheel.  The counter-weights were removed to neutrally balance it.  As for the clutch, I used a dual friction centerforce unit.  It was the one they listed for my application -- V6 4spd.  HTH.

     tyler...

hey Tyler
thx for the quick reply; what year and model did your engine come from?  Were there differences in how they might have been balanced (ie internally etc etc) that you know of?
So you just got a clutch for the 2.8 and it fit and works (obviously)

I was emailing Dennis LaGrua in NJ and he has mentioned and creditted you on his website; thought I would pass that along to you.....! Pretty neat.
thanks for the help.  Any and all info is appreciated!
gp

The rule of thumb is to match as follows:
flywheel to engine
clutch to tranny

The iron head 3.4's are all internally balanced AFAIK.  If you find a manual, you can use it's flywheel.  Fiero 2.8's are only internally balanced for 88's, but I think all later engines in the 60 degree family are internally balanced as well (3.1 etc)

The real restriction in clutch use is that it will physically fit in the bell housing.  You should use the throw out bearing for the 284. (if that's what you have).  there are lots running around with mismatched plates etc that work okay as long as they are not too big to squash in.  I don't know if the tranny sizes vary much between the 4 speed and 5 speed.

Thanks for the input, Gary; now for part TWO: I am wondering just exactly how 'identical' these two engines are; the 2.8 and the 3.4; are the heads the "SAME" or are the 3.4's different; ie bigger valves etc?

Anyone?
My underlying problem here is that the only 3.4's I can find are in GOOD shape and I actually want a smoker to rebuild with low comp pistons, different cam extensive head work, etc etc.  I am just wondering if I can swap a 'decent' 3.4 in temporarily and at least do the head work on my 2.8 to fit a later-to-be-rebuilt 3.4 as head work is quite time consuming.
THANKS in advance all; much appreciated!
GP

Graeme, time for you to go play here
http://www.60degreev6.com/index.php?p=sections&sid=15

I'm sure you have seen this site already, but if I can't beat on it with a hammer, I don't get too interested.  ;D

Have fun.

Neat to see props to Tyler.  He even made it in front of Jesus and Dennis' family.  Way to go!

that is funny;
I had not one, but TWO webpages for the 60 degree V6 site open when I got this notification..............
great minds etc etc
(can't remember the rest of it..........lol)
thx Gary
In my wayward youth I was a commonplace fixture in any local wrecking yard; knew my way around a lot of cars etc etc; but now I haven't had the 'opportunity' to spend quite so much time........ in those wonderful and intriguing places.  For some reason.....
So I am trying to substitute by asking things that in another time, I would have had the answer to. :-\ ;)
But I am talking to a few fiero shops in TO to get some prices on parts so I can at least START on the car; still a bit busy but not nearly so bad.
gp

Well rule of thumb, even if you are rebuilding an engine. You want to find a good clean one that hopefully does not smoke. A smoking engine is often a sign of neglect. ie: overheated, infrequen oil changes ect.

This may lead to: warped cracked heads, skored cylinders (you can only bore so much), hairline fractures in the crank. Those are all big money items.

Best thing to do, call insurance companies and get one that was wrecked.

As for the flywheel: I'm not 100% sure alle 3.4L were internalyl balanced.. I would match the fiero flywhell to the weight balance of the 3.4L flex plate or flywheel.

For a turbo 3.4L, use teh same cluch as we will in the 3800sc. I think it Bulley or something.. I'll get more info.
Gary was right, use the release bearing from the donor tranny. (284 Getrag). I'd go with a SLIGHTLY stiffer pressure plate. DO NOT go overboard on the pressure plate. The hydrolic system on the Fiero is weak to say the least. and the stiffer pressure plate makes normal driving a chore. :P

Eric

Good day Mr Potts
I just bought my clutch from Ottawa Clutch-2Stage made by Bully. they are pretty good there willing to deal I am also looking at a Aluminum flywheel for the 2.8 it is a little costly but weigh wise it is graet cost is 600.00 bills thoughso I will see. But give Ottawa clutch they can build it for you.

THANKS  ;) ;) ;) to all who kicked in with info; that's what these things are for and it is working great; sounds like I have a choice on the clutch issue and it is ALWAYS nice to have a choice; Eric - you are right about the neglect item; overheating is virtually impossible to spot and is a deadly event for the internals so that was a timely reminder to me.  Looks like I will get that 'decent' 3.4 (100K km's) as a starter and go from there.
Already pulled my battery to go up front (will fabricate a box) and wrote out my list of priorities to get thru the safety check etc etc.
Hope to see everyone soon!  thanks again.
GP

hi Karl
I saw aluminum flywheels at $550 list in one of the toronto shops PLUS we can probably get another 10 or 15% off (club discount) which should help.
try to have more tonite if we both make it to the meeting..........

Graeme hi well I guess I will go with getting my flywheel machined as of last night I bought a throttle body and plenum bored 3mm and both port and polished. so I will have to wait now to see what I can do . I will be there tonight as long as the weather stays so so.