V6 exhaust advice ...

[RGBaker]

Time to tackle the noisy front exhaust manifold on my 2.8 ...

I've got the noisy/ticking exhaust common to this motor; it quiets some when warmed up, but needs attention just the same.  My plan is as follows, but any suggestions appreciated:

1) Order Dickman's stud kit, get the HO gasket set, assemble all the 13mm wrenches and sockets I can find;
2) Soak the bolts in Liquid Wrench;
3) Remove the deck lid after marking it's location;
4) Carefully (that is -- don't break a bolt!) remove the bolts holding the manifold and heat shield.  More Liquid Wrench & maybe a little heat from a propane torch ...
5) Take the manifold to a welder, have the flanges and joints strengthened.  Maybe a quick brush with a sandblaster to clean it up before welding -- it would be good to have the manifold torqued onto an old head to keep everything square.  Anyone recommend a welder with the appropriate stainless skills in the Ottawa area?  And while I'm asking, anyone got a head I could borrow as a welding jig? 
6) Scrape off any remaining gasket from the 2.8;
7) Install the Dickman stud kit (a little Locktite here?) and the new gasket (should this be sealed on, or does it go on 'dry'?);
Replace the manifold, reattach the crossover (new gasket here too), torque to spec;
9) Fire it up & enjoy the sweet new sounds of silence ...

OK, it might be harder to do than write up -- any comments appreciated.  To put it in perspective, I haven't touched an exhaust header since I replaced the cast iron stock one on a Chevy small block with Hooker headers twenty five years ago.  My wife will be breathing down my neck if this job takes more than a day -- the car is her current daily driver.  I'm working in the great outdoors -- no garage. 

Cheers,
GB

[FieroBUZZ]

Geoff:  sounds like you've covered most of the bases.

If it eases your mind any, you're just as likely to find loose or missing bolts as broken ones.  I took mine off and there were only 3 finger tight and one still tight. All the rest were missing.

I priced the Saturn studs thru the dealer at one time.  This is basically what Rodney's kit gives you.  The part numbers had all been changed and the replacement studs were unbelieveably expensive.  Get Rodney's kit. 

The guy down the road is going to weld my 3800 manifold.  He seems to know what he's doing, but we'll find out.  There is a welding shop across from the cdn Tire in Perth that specializes in marine/exotic welding.  I haven't tried them though.

Claude (Fiero1) has a spare set of manifolds (but no more Fiero  )  It is probably a good idea to pick up a set to do and reduce the down time.  You can get rid of your old ones or have them done as well and sell them off.

Gary

[GoFast88]

I matched up the studs that I got from Midas with some that I found at Canadain Tire. As long as the thread pitch is the same and the length is long there is no reason to order studs from The States.

[dguy]

Claude (Fiero1) has a spare set of manifolds (but no more Fiero  )  It is probably a good idea to pick up a set to do and reduce the down time.  You can get rid of your old ones or have them done as well and sell them off.

If you gain some time by going this route, you may wish to consider "fixing" the manifolds where the runners for cylinders 3 through 6 are welded to the headpipe.  There are some nice restrictions in there which are simply begging to be attacked with a grinder. 

[fiero308]

Time to tackle the noisy front exhaust manifold .................
 Anyone recommend a welder with the appropriate stainless skills in the Ottawa area?  ............

7) Install the Dickman stud kit (a little Locktite here?) and the new gasket (..........

...........

Cheers,
GB

I think the thing to be prepared for is the worst, unfortunately.  If this is a daily driver then something will BREAK......
the muffler shop guys use an oxy acet torch to heat things; it is a LOT more heat than a propane torch, so be prepared to do the heat/cool thing a fair bit.  What has worked quite well for me in the past (with ignorant exh bolts etc) is repeated heating and cooling; heat the NUT as hot as you can (everything else will get hot of course, but the NUT will get red hot) and then try to hit the STUD ONLY with a shot of penetrating oil of some sort.  Some common sense needed here regarding safety glasses and an understanding of gravity and where hot dripping oil usually goes..... (guess why I mentioned that!?!?    )....
And when you see good 'separation' from the nut to the stud while heating; IE the nut seems to get red by itself; then give it another shot of penetrating oil and then put a wrench on it to TRY it.  Gently.  You are just trying to break the threads free, not do a whole turn.

Be INCREDIBLY patient at this stage; eventually regular motor oil on the threads will be the very best lube to get that nut off.

re: thread locker; you might consider ANTI SEIZE compound, instead....... 
see what people say, but that will help you get it apart again 2 yrs from now if you need to.

good luck!

[RGBaker]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I'll message Fiero1 & see if his manfiolds are available -- still leaves me looking for welder with the skills ... and a grinder too, should I open them up for a little breathing.

I'd be content to buy the studs & nuts locally, but I'm concerned to get the right ones -- this is a job I'd prefer to do just once!  Exact part numbers and the like appreciated, if anyone knows ...

The Locktite would go on the studs, not the nuts, I'd expect -- though in my experience Locktite _does_ break loose when you want it to -- but I appreciate your reminder that propane heat is nowhere near as hot as acetylene.

Cheers,
GB