fiero308 Buildup thread (LOTS OF PIX!!!! ; ))

[fiero308]

actually yes, Don, the stock "log" type exh manifolds are really pretty lousy from a performance point of view but they ARE so damn convenient that I am going to go with them for the time being. I am using TWO "REAR" manifolds (or fronts or whatever they were) as they are interchangeable that way.  They FIT, they are very COMPACT and that solves a problem. I will have to chop up the stock X-over tube to make it fit but that is no big deal; it will also become the 'exit' pipe to the muffler etc.  Not quite sure how I am going to do that but pretty soon I will have to get new tanks for the oxy acet torches so that I can start doing that work.  I don't think I want to MIG the exh system; I am more confident in gas welding it.

Again that is down the line a bit.....

[FieroBUZZ]

I have the same crossover and cable clearance problem.  I have decided for now to keep the crossover and wrap it with header wrap.  Also making a sheath for the cables from the same.

Regarding the cables....  does Rodney D not make a 'kit' to convert the front drive 282 to Fiero usage?  While the 282 bv 284 parts may differ a bit, would not the actual 'technology' or problem solving be pretty mucch the same?  Don't know...just asking.

Don't worry about me... I'm hung up on welding new mounts and wiring.  I have my people working on a new 5 year plan.  Estimated completion winter 2010.   

If you get your refund, you may want to look at this
http://www.usedottawa.com/classified-ad/82070

I had emailed when he wanted 1200.  and he said that the motor had been rebuilt (?) last year,  but he also seems to make it hard to see in action.  e.g doors broke, no battery .

[fiero308]

hi Gary
I haven' t pursued Rodney's stuff so I just don't know what he has avail.

Yeah the header wrap would be a good idea; it looks like crap but it is a good idea.  So are the metal heat shields, which I may or may not be able to keep as I am carving up the stock exh so much.  They are made to 'clip on' to the stock shapes.

Is that the z34? I phoned and left a msg asking if it was an auto (which I suspect) or a manual ('93 - possible but doubtful) and no reply.

I might have to drive down to Peterboro to get my refund in person and in fact am sort of planning that. EArly saturday AM drive to peterboro's Tim Hortons for coffee.....  He DID say he would give it to me but words and actions are so different...

Am still hoping to make more progress this fall. HAving said that, I am going out to lookat a possible 2nd house purchase so...... if we DO get it my urgent need to clone myself will increase that much more.....     

good to hear from you; guess you will be 'blessed' with a bunch of new smiling faces pretty soon ....

[fiero308]

well it is sunday AM; have put up with about a 36 hour bout of stomach flu or some reasonable facsimile thereof...... lotsa fun.
Hope the drive and meet and so on were a LOT of fun and my hat is off to Don and Sasha for doing that. I wouldn't have been able to go even if I DID have a running car..... and that is my mentality on that stuff; I just don't feel right about it until my car is actually RUNNING..... so I am a prisoner of my own device in a sense....

I think it is late enough that I can 'make noise' now......  so today's task is to make a trans shift linkage adapter so that the fiero's cables will connect to and operate the shift mechanism at the 284 trans.  The biggie here (that is NOT figured out really) is the 'spool' piece - it is actually a lathe turned piece that is hardened (stock) and I will have to settle for something less, we'll have to see what I can cook up.

So away we go and we'll see what we end up with today. The "carrot" is that when this is figured out I can start putting the engine on the cradle and think about installing it!! 

[fiero308]

Gary: I did check out Rodneys stuff and it looks different. Can't be 100% sure but it looks that way.
SO...........
I finished my shift stuff today. I may (prob WILL) get one piece made up 'properly' on a lathe at some point but for now I think I am good.
I did cut some corners; was running a bit late so I did the "DIP" paint method.....
and let them hang up.
I will put up some pix tomorrow when they are finished drying.

So next I can actually finish up the engine: new seals, gaskets, timing belt and all that stuff and get it all closed up and put it on the cradle.
Then into the car. Nuthin' to it. 

Geez.......this engine swap stuff is easy.......
 

[fiero308]

well the 24 hour flu bug is a really fun experience. So much so that is sometimes drags out for 48 and more hours!! A new diet experience!! 

But regardless I went out sunday aft and got a bit done. I still have to figure out how to connect the fiero shift cables to the linkage but I don't see that as a show stopper now.

So the first thing is to make up a cardboard template and a new base plate:
I was GOING to have the cables come in a bit more at 90 deg; ie pretty much from the TOP of the photo, but that darn bolt head really screws things up. So.... back into the Flintstone machine; play with cables, and determined that the cables would be fine with the extra angle as indicated. So base plate got made up.
I simply chopped off the 'mounting ears' for the up/down lever (pivot pin) and rewelded them onto this base plate.

2nd pic shows the up/down lever in place now with the 'select' lever being sized. It has to 'turn a corner' because of the new 'cable entry' direction... plus I want it to alignwith the other cable end and neutral AND be about the same length centre to centre so that is doesn't throw the shifting off from stock too much. This last I am guessing at actually but at least I have the lengths recorded and if I DO have a prob I will have that in mind.

So the angle is changed and the length is changed with that middle filler piece.

[fiero308]

I shortened the select arm; this is the one that moves when you move the shifter from front to back; NOT side to side. I only shortened it by about 1/8" tho; since I have NO idea what the comparison is between the stock Lumina shifter travel and the fiero one; but I am hoping they are pretty darn close if not identical (which is my guess) for lengths of travel.
So this should give me slightly shorter throws.
The spool mod is the one that I wasn't sure what I would do, exactly, but after asembling the other pieces and looking at it work thru its range, I determined that I could (at least try to) elongate the existing groove a bit and I would have to chop off the pin that holds the spool in place. This is NOT my ideal (ie final) solution for this but I am confident that it will work well enough to be an indicator.  If it does work out then I will get a new piece made up where either the upper or lower thickness (ie above or below) the groove) will be slightly thicker to allow a new, full length hole for the pin to go thru and thus give me TWO pin shear areas for security and durability.

[fiero308]

so here is the spools again; stock and modified. These are pretty small actually and that makes the work with an angle grinder a bit fussy. But work with whatcha got, I guess.
So it is the far side of the slot that needed to be elongated. I will do a test assy today (maybe) and see if I 'got enough of it"..... but it isn't that hard to do with a bit of care.

You can see the welded-up shift arm to the right. I dipped everything in aluminum paint. THat stuff is great, actually. It contains actual aluminum particulate which is a pretty good rust-and-corrosion preventor....  and it gets into all the little pits and seams where rust always gets a foot hold......

Plus I was timing out so dipping the parts in the can was my option at the moment....
Ok so I'm no Picasso.     I knew that a long time ago.

Finally here is the fruits of my labour......
doesn't look like much but it is, actually. Everything fits and works and aside from having to adapt the cable ends to this linkage (or vice versa) it is good to go for now.

NEXT:
finish up the engine (there is one troublesome oil leak with this type); install the timing belt (got it but should be interesting) and some gaskets and seals and (if the machine shop guy is back....) think about my custom intake (why now you ask? - because the stock one causes clearance issues to the front firewall...)

Then install the whole thing on the cradle and get ready to go into the car. There IS a chance this thing will run this yr after all....

Keep your fingers crossed!!
 

[fiero308]

well I got a chance to test out the shift linkage and - without being connected to the cables of course - it works fine! so I am encouraged. I expect some tuning and adjustment of the cables when the enging goes in the car but that is fine.

First pic shows the levers set at the extreme 'rearward' position which tests the elongated slot I put in that spool piece and the levers will select the gears easily.
No binding or interference.

So that will do for now.

I forgot a few items related to finishingup the engine. I had deleted the pwr str pump and the A/C compressor. I also took out one pully from the timing belt loop so will have to replace that; it is the one on the tensioner and there is a set procedure to follow for that; so I need to read up. Involves a paper clip........
really.

I will have to make up idler pulleys for those two deleted items but that is not going to be that big a deal.  For now my challenge will be to get the timing re-set and the belt and tensioner all back in place.

2nd pic is where the pulleys have to be replaced with idlers.

[fiero308]

and the usual oil leak source on this engine: where the distributor shaft USED to go...
there is still a 'dummy' shaft that takes the place of the cam shaft in the usual place. Then they have an intermediate vertical shaff running down (where the distributor USED to be........) to drive the oil pump. geez..........
so the cap leaks. Big well known problem on these. And difficult to fix PROPerly.....
you have to take off the HEAD to lift that cap off and replace the O ring.
So I am going to just lift the cap the 1/8" that there is room for and clean it up and silicone it for now.
The trickis to get it spotlessly clean and then not use too much sealant.  A thin smear will do; any more and you get 'grapes' of the stuff dropping into the oil system...... which is generally NOT good..
The yellow arrow shows the seam that seeps and the red arrow shows the Head bolting flange that interferes with it.

but I am working on the engine; that is a big step so I am excited by that.

 

[fiero308]

minor activity = minor update.
I am wrestling with putting a new timing belt on and it is not a 'snap'..... and that is with the engine out of the car. I feel sorry for the mechanics who are allowed some ridiculous pittance to change the timing belt on these; no WONDER they don't like to see them coming and no wonder the typical owner drives it till the belt just goes...

anyway I have made up two camshaft holder tools and have figured out (with help from PFF) how to contract the belt tensioner etc so as I get time I will be struggling with getting the belt on. The key point here is that the cam gears are NOT keyed or splined or anything....... they are a press fit and are infinitely variable on the camshaft 'snout'...... so you have to be a bit fussy about setting them up.
Anyway i DO have the procedure and the tools made up; it is just a question of getting a bit of time.

I am casually looking for some 17" IROC rims (instead of my stock 16" rims) as a work around for the slight brake caliper interference prob I am still wating to resolve. (The rims are at the M/C shop)

So that is it for now.
thanks for being patient.....  I'm not!
gp

[fiero308]

well the timing belt is STILL not on but I think it is a matter of a bit of wrestling; the sort of big news at this point is that I DID get out to the machine shop and they are more than swamped;....... ie he said it will be 8 to 10 wks before he can get at my wheels. Hmmmmm

NOT that they are exactly a show-stopper at this point, but I really don't want to go exploring for another (shop) and I do have lots to do so I will focus on getting the engine in and wiring and so on.

I am thinking about replacing the fuel pump so that is another little item to tick off.  It seems that fuel pumps are virtually identical in their construction and size; it is just capacity and pressure that varies.

I have to say, the bottom side of this car is reMARKable for cleanliness and lack of rust. It resembles a 5 year old car more or less. Virtually NO sign of rust (other than normal oxidation from air) anywhere.  Certainly NO salt damage.
Nice.

on another (rats-type) front, we find we have about 6 new bouncing baby windows (yes, HOUSE-type...) on the way! No congrats necessary, thanks. This one counts as a mistake.......   so we are NOT overjoyed by the news.......

so guess where the car fits into THAT pic?      

[fiero308]

well the timing belt is ON......... I can't say I am 100% happy with the 'apparent' timing marks (how they line up or DON"T) on the timing belt gears, but I have looked things over as best as possible and I think it will be ok. 

But Don Roger (ex-fieroist) swung by and I put him to work so I got somewhere today!

It is a CHORE. Had to take it off and put it on about 5 times to get it right. The belt 'tightens' with the tensioner a surprising amount and the first couple of times; ie at least a tooth on the gear/belt. So it was a bit of a challenge; you have to 'anticipate' how much the belt will tighten and sort of build that into the initial belt install'n onto the gears. Then when you put the tensioner on it; the marks DO line up.

So now to finish up the motor; get it closed up.

Tyler was good enough to drop the name of a guy who might be able to help out with my front wheels issue - thanks Tyler - so I will get at that shortly.

So a bit. And for now that is how it will get closer.

[fiero308]

timing belt is on. And off. and on. and........
then finally when I was ready to tighten up the cam gear bolts I found out how incredibly easily the belt can skip; I was NOT leaning on the wrench too much and "jump"! about 3 teeth on the belt. So
off again on again etc etc.
but I finally got it right.
Lesson learned: the timing belts can jump their teeth REALLY easily!! It is almost hard to imagine that it doesn't happen really often with a 'reluctant' motor from time to time; ie the odd belch or backfire etc.
If you look closely you can see the marks but I didn't really go by them alone; there are "flats" on the cams that are the real indicator.
Then I took my blade tip on the soldering gun and fixed up my multiple-cracked/broken belt cover and (without too close an inspection) voila:

[fiero308]

then get the cover ON...... carefully force (great combo of terms) the accessory belt tensioner out of the way) and it lines up pretty well. We'll see if it holds up. I understand that the 94 and up years had a better, stronger design and should bolt up too so I am now watching for a 94-up for a whole pile of parts...

then on to the pesky standard 3.4 oil leak issue:
(or where oil issues from the engine......oh never mind)
#1 shows the tight space that is at the inside of the "used-to-be-distributor-shaft" and it is tight. I got a box of Q-tips and found they barely fit in the space. But the real little patience tester was underneath the cap itself; you can see that the flange from the head keeps it from lifting very far.
Like about 1/8" inch or so. A Q tip would NOT fit under the cap when lifted. hmm
So I cut a few strips of cotton sheet (rag) and soaked them in varsol and carefully squeezed them in that little space, turning the cap as I went to 'feed' the strip all the way around.
Repeat several times; then rinse with nice clean strips till no dirt or oil comes out.
This leaks like a sieve if you don't get it right; it is right above the oil pump and obviously there is really good pressure there. Cause it will virtually PUMP oil.
Anyway
GM in their wisdom put a nice O ring in it but it hardens and then doesn't seal and you have to remove the cam carrier and the head to replace that $1 'O' ring.  Uh huh.
It is WELL gooed up now without (I feel confident) risking any entry of silicone sealant into the chambers below. Clamped and forget about it till it is time to take it off (full rebuild)

I am NOT going to go to any great lengths on THIS motor - I have another block and a  pile of parts for rebuilding if this looks like a viable proposition.  Besides I haven't decided which way I will go - turbo etc so I just want to get this in and get the wiring and exh figured out.

I am also backpedalling on the exh; I will try to see if the stock 3.4 setup will work as a time and complication saver for now. I may save my time on that for a somewhat basic set of headers but will see.
I hope to be able to keep poking away at it; once it is closed up it can go on the cradle and then into the car; even without the shifter hooked up I can do the electrics and get it running.

That is my near term goal.