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Ottawa Fiero Club Forum  |  General  |  General Chat  |  Topic: Buying A Fiero? « previous next »
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Author Topic: Buying A Fiero?  (Read 2270 times)
FieroBUZZ
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« on: May 10, 2006, 07:22:36 pm »

I thought it would be a good idea if we could write up a blurb on the prizes and pitfalls of buying a Fiero.

It seems to me all too common for some sucker (no offence Derek) to buy a 'nice' 84 and proceed to have it self destruct.  Often the Series 2 cult leader volunteers to 'rescue' said car.   Evil  Afro

Back on topic.  If everyone could list points, cosmetic, mechanical, or just information that could help in a buying decision, I would be willing to write up something for a sticky topic.

Here or pm is fine.  I'll do a rough draft for general critique and later we can delete this thread.
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MacPhail
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« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2006, 08:33:20 pm »

Hey!   First a comment about my "POS" Blazer and how I need a brain scan, and now I'm a sucker!   Cheesy

Here are some things that I have learned:

1.  Take someone along who knows Fieros to look at it before you make the decision to buy.  As I've learned the hard way, just because someone is a "mechanic" doesn't mean they know squat about Fieros.

2.  Refer to Point #1.

Cheers, Derek
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FieroBUZZ
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« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2006, 09:31:36 pm »

Hey!   First a comment about my "POS" Blazer and how I need a brain scan, and now I'm a sucker!   Cheesy






LOL!  I bought my first as a project car from a "reputable" Fiero person.  It was rotten from arsehole to appetite and suitable only for parts.  I could have spent the money on hookers from the old folks home and gotten a better deal.

My Jimmy and I don't see life from the same point.  It may come to a nasty end by BFH one of these days.

 Embarrassed  Embarrassed  Embarrassed  Embarrassed 
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MacPhail
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« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2006, 09:49:22 pm »

BFH?Huh??

Cheers, Derek
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Kevin
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« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2006, 10:23:06 pm »

BFH = Big F$%^n Hammer, Gary's tool of choice.   Kevin
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MacPhail
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« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2006, 11:18:24 pm »

BFH = Big F$%^n Hammer, Gary's tool of choice.   Kevin

Ah!   Smiley

Cheers, Derek
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34FieroGT
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« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2006, 08:17:56 am »

As for the original topic:

-check the rear frame rails, just reach up above the rear wheel in the wheel well and see how much rust flakes off in your hands
-inspect the coolant tubes that run along each side of the car.  Lots of mechanics like to use them as lift points
-pull the trunk carpet back and check for rust/holes, especially on each side by the wheel wells and the very bottom of the trunk


I know that there are other specific fiero points to look for, but these are the major ones that I recall off the top of my head right now.

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tyler...
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« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2006, 08:52:07 am »

Tyler's three points above are the basics, and to be honest the only things I tend to really look at closely.

Why?

It's a 20 year old car which was somewhat sporty in its day.  Odds are that one or more previous owners have beat up on it a bit and let maintenance slide.  I would never consider purchasing something in a Fiero's vintage as a "hop in and go" vehicle.  It's going to need some TLC, even if it has a current safety check.  It's going to leave you stuck on the side of the road at least once, and at the least convenient moment you can imagine.

That being said, other common faults in a "new" Fiero which will suck a little more time and money from you:
  • Parking brake functionality, including the rear brakes in general.  Particularly if the car is an automatic.  Excuses for not using the parking brake are a dime a dozen, but if the previous owner(s) have not been using the parking brake expect poor braking performance, rust-frozen cables, and possibly rear calipers with adjuster and/or parking brake problems.
  • Wobbly tilt steering columns.  Simple to fix, but requires tearing in to the column a ways.  More time consuming than anything else.  It's also a safety item, as the culprit may in some cases jam the steering wheel without warning.
  • Crusty rusty battery trays.
  • Oil leaks.  With the 2.5L, look for leaks around the base of the valve cover gasket.  With the 2.8, check the base of the distributor.
  • Hoses in general.  20 year old rubber.  Think about it.
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1984: Track car project.
1985 SE: Dead 2.8, stalled L67 swap.
2ML67
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« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2006, 06:17:24 pm »

All very good things to look for, one other is to look at the front metal frame area in front and beside the headlights. If it has been hit in the front this is the one spot usually not straightened properly.  Then there is the most important some choose not to look for, that is heaping piles of rat doo doo from the car sitting for long periods of time waiting for an owner who can actually get the car working. Thats usually the case where you hear I do not have an ownership I bought it off so and so who got it from etc... Dan
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2ML67
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« Reply #9 on: May 14, 2006, 07:20:33 pm »

This here blue thingy is a good example of what not to buy. Even worse it was certified by some one who is in need of new glasses. Typical holes in trunk area hidden by carpet, battery tray rotted and battery held in place with a piece of wood. Scarriest is the condition of the engine cradle lower control arm area. The passenger's side is the worst. Considering there is only two bolts holding it on with 4 plates of steel attaching it to the cradle. On this one three of the sides are rotted leaves me wondering how much longer it would have taken for the control arm to fall of most likely while driving down the road. Dan
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MacPhail
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« Reply #10 on: May 14, 2006, 11:00:44 pm »

Dan...thankfully the engine died when it did and that I found this group and most of all you.

Cheers, Derek
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2ML67
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« Reply #11 on: May 15, 2006, 07:16:13 am »

Brown nosing and butt kissing will not make me work any faster on your car. HEE HEE. Dan
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