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Ottawa Fiero Club Forum  |  General  |  Mods  |  Topic: Racing-style seats « previous next »
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Author Topic: Racing-style seats  (Read 5208 times)
FieroBUZZ
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« Reply #15 on: December 10, 2006, 08:45:04 pm »

If the seat will move forward, you can get the nuts.  If it doesn't move, make sure the cable from one track to the other is intact and that both tracks release so the seat can slide.

No workee?  Then you can grind the edge off off the nut.  Do not grind into the threads of the stud. Once it is flattened you should be able to knock it with an air hammer or screwdriver and hammer to rotate the nut.  I've had fairly good luck so far.

Try to protect the carpet and seat as the sparks will melt into them.   Azn
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dguy
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« Reply #16 on: December 11, 2006, 08:54:50 am »

For the rounded-off nut, invest in a nut splitter or one of those rounded-off bolt socket sets.  Or both.  Smiley  No sparks, no heat, just busted nut removal.

Use a combination or ratcheting wrench to get at the back nuts--even with the seat all the way forward it's a PITA to get a low profile socket on them.
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1984: Track car project.
1985 SE: Dead 2.8, stalled L67 swap.
FieroBUZZ
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« Reply #17 on: December 11, 2006, 10:44:14 am »

I could never get my nutbuster on the nut (it may be too big), Yeah they are in a lousy spot if the seat doesnt move.

If you don't need to save the rail then you can bend it up and cut it off in pieces.

I've never done it, but putting a bolt thru the floor doesn't seem to be a biggie...I don't think there's anything there to damage.
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MacPhail
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« Reply #18 on: December 11, 2006, 12:34:08 pm »

I'm going to have to give this one a bit of thought.  If it's this big a pain to take out, won't it be an equally big pain to put back in?!

I'm not worried about saving the carpet (would like to put in black carpetting) or the rail for that matter, so maybe cutting the rail out would be the best thing.  I think this may be a spring project. 

Cheers, Derek
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dguy
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« Reply #19 on: December 11, 2006, 12:58:39 pm »

I'm going to have to give this one a bit of thought.  If it's this big a pain to take out, won't it be an equally big pain to put back in?!

Not if you apply a little extra TLC, no.  Smiley  Once the seat is out, chase the studs' threads with a die to clean them up.  For the re-install, use new nuts & anti-seize. 

For an added bonus, sandblast & paint the seat rails before re-installing, but make sure you have a way to get the blasting media out of the moving parts...  Submerging the rails in a tub full of warm water & TSP while working the slider back & forth for a while seems to do it.  Chuck it in the oven at 150°F for about an hour to dry.  Paint, lube, re-install!
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1984: Track car project.
1985 SE: Dead 2.8, stalled L67 swap.
FieroBUZZ
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« Reply #20 on: December 11, 2006, 01:09:37 pm »

You can get carpet in any colour and a couple of types (fuzzy or loop) from The restoration place in Prescott.  You may find cheaper on ebay, if you look around.

As far as I know, all replacement carpet is manufactured by ACC no matter who is selling it. So price is the key....it's the same stuff everywhere.

Also note there is no driver's side dead pedal pad on any replacement stuff.
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aaron88
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« Reply #21 on: December 11, 2006, 09:23:55 pm »

Two things you could try:
1. I often find that a good long handle pair of "channel lock" nutbuster pliers works almost every time.  They will hold better than any wrench in your set, since you don’t mind wrecking the nut.
2. Vice grip makes a pair of nut locking pliers as well.  They hold the nut on three sides.  Hack that on good and solid and work it back and forth for a while until the nut comes loose.  All you need is a nut that isn’t completely rounded yet.  These will also not round or damage the nut so it's usually the first tool I try!

You may have the problem where the stud brakes off.  In that case you will have to drill the floor and install a bolt through it.  Hopefully it won't come to that.

Good luck.


Aaron

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