Upper control arm help!?!?!

[fiero308]

I am in the process of removing the control arms from my car; and in its usual fashion the Chiltons says "remove bolt" (from upper control arm)...
Is there some special trick to it or anything I need to know?  The nut is off of course and the 'nut-end' rubber bushing is out, but the bolt almost feels 'locked in' place; it turns but - I suspect it is held by the rubber bushing a bit but can't seem to get it to move.
Is there something I am missing here?  I think it will take all week to get it out at this rate and would like to do it quicker than that..........
thanks in advance!!!   any and all.
Gary; I would like to come out monday or tuesday if that is ok?
I will need directions and/or a map.
thx
gp

[Fieroflyer]

Basically GM still caries the bushings and bolts so you may have to hammer the bolt out or spin it out with an impact and replace the bolt and seeing as this will probably destroy the bushing replace it to. Lousy design a steel bolt through a steel shaft inside a rubber bushing who ever thought it would corrode. I believe the bolt is around $19 and the bushings one is around $23 and the other $25. Have fun.

[fiero308]

thx Don;
nice to meet you last nite along with some others.
I am wondering if the 'metal sleeve' that the bolt runs thru is also gummed up with rust etc. altho the bolt turns and it feels very suspiciously like it is stuck in rubber.  I just don't like the idea of burning it all up so am trying to figure out some other way.
thx again.
GP

[FieroDough]

Argh! Upper control arm? *sigh* same deal as the cradle bushings. Burn them. to avoid body damage from the heat, use a sawsall to cut the bolt between the arm and frame. then set the assembly asside, melt bushings, clean, repaint, replace with poly bushings, new bolt, lotS and lots of ati-seize.


I have to do this as well with my engine swap.  not fun, but the car feels much better when all the bushings are replaced.

good luck!, Eric.

BTW: some people have had success with a zip gun... but the reubber bushing absorbs most of the impact.. in my opinion, this is a waste of time and should just burn it..

Eric

[Fieroflyer]

If you are going to cut it out be careful as that tube inside is attached and you do not want to damage it. The upper control arm can be replaced easier than that tube can be.

[dguy]

The nut is off of course and the 'nut-end' rubber bushing is out, but the bolt almost feels 'locked in' place; it turns but - I suspect it is held by the rubber bushing a bit but can't seem to get it to move.

I ran into a similar thing when working to remove one of the rear control arms.  Bolt had rusted to the rubber bushing's inner sleeve.  The pic doesn't show it very well, but both bolts are very nicely pitted due to corrosion.  Definite candidates for replacement.

I ended up burning enough of the bushing away so that I could lock a set of vise-grips around the inner sleeve, and then persuaded the two to separate with a breaker bar.  The fun part was finding a tension on the vise-grips that held the inner sleeve securely, but didn't compress it to the point of pinching the bolt even further.  I'm looking forward to a repeat performance on the other side, and many encores when I do the front bushings...  NOT.

I would have done just about anything for a cutting torch yesterday afternoon.  Wanna see how much anti-seize I can slop in there when I put the new bolts in?  

edit:  awww crap..  image didn't take the first time.

[fiero308]

I think the front top bolts at about 14" long are going to be more fun than the others altho none of these would likely qualify as prizes to be won in a contest..........
I don't like the idea of using heat on important parts altho I might end up burning the front bushing away (at least some) with my propane torch - I don't want to 're-temper' any steel parts...!!!!
I think it is mostly the rubber bushing that is the pain in the butt now.
EVERYONE go buy shares in GUNK - the makers of Liquid Wrench of course!
Thanks to all for replying!