My new car -status

[JetJumper]

Ok, I just went outside and tryed starting again.  BOOM she starts up and idles great...turns out there is no fuel pump issue.  Now, one thing I noticed it that the V6 usaully have a pipe blowing air on it (Coil) from the fan in the trunk correct?  Well, the fan is blowing air but their is no pipe going to the coil area....So my question is, is it that the coil is heating up too much that it doesn't want to stay running?

[Boy-z]

I would say that is probably 99.9 correct.

[dguy]

Hey Chris,

Looks like I missed something, somewhere.

What's the beast doing--running fine when cold, then randomly cutting out when warm or hot?

[JetJumper]

Pretty much yes.  Once it warms up it doesn't want to even idle.  I have not tried to drive it anywhere because the brake line off the master has been cut when people broke into the car.  So once I fix that, I will give her a better test run.

[JetJumper]

new status, its not running...lol


It almost seems like there is still no fuel going to it. I dunno why It ran the first time.  Oh well, I will keep you all posted

[JetJumper]

Thanks to the help of Gizmo (Nick) I now have a car that will stay running.  the problem was relays.  A lot of them are shot, or just need to be cleaned.  A few fuses missing (For small things)

Now to clean up relays, or replace dead ones.  But Saterday, Good day to work.  Anyone here have a Brake line "Flarer"

Well I will be out on Saterday. Does anyone need an Intake for the Duke?

[aaron88]

Just a little note:


On the 88 model there is no blower for the coil, but GM used the same coil (I think someone was trying to cut cost).  However fixing the blower pipe will help the coil last longer.  But don’t forget that when things run cooler hp goes up.  In this case though I think any added boost due to running a cooling blower gets negated by the extra power drawn from the alternator to run the blower.  So my suggestion is to remove the blower all together.  Besides it’ll lighten the rear end. (lol)



Aaron

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[dguy]

On the 88 model there is no blower for the coil, but GM used the same coil (I think someone was trying to cut cost).  However fixing the blower pipe will help the coil last longer.  

Two points--First, as I understand it the 1988 2M6's had no engine compartment fan period, not just "no blower for the coil."  They used a different alternator design which (among other things) used both an internal and an external fan to pull more air through it than 87 and earlier alternators, and the coil was left to its own devices.

Second, Chris's car is an '85 (mentioned in a thread over in "Sell Your Car").  More than anything else, I suspect that the cooling tube which is supposed to be pointing at the coil is simply missing.

But don’t forget that when things run cooler hp goes up.  In this case though I think any added boost due to running a cooling blower gets negated by the extra power drawn from the alternator to run the blower.

I believe you're mixing apples with oranges.

Keeping the air charge cooler to a certain extent will increase its density, which will be detected by the engine's sensors and cause the ECM to widen the injector pulses accordingly.  More air/fuel to burn = more power.

Cooler air charges also reduce the likelyhood of pre-ignition, hence the use of intercoolers on engines running turbo or superchargers under high amounts of boost.

The engine compartment fan in the pre-88 2M6's is only there to try to keep the alternator and coil from cooking.  Keeping these particular electronic components cool will likely increase nothing other than the service life of the components.

[dguy]

Now to clean up relays, or replace dead ones.  But Saterday, Good day to work.  Anyone here have a Brake line "Flarer"

Nope, but have a tube bender if you need it.

[Sentinel]

so any pics yet?

[JetJumper]

Pictures, no....Someone got a digi cam I can borrow?  My parents went away and took the cam with them..

[JetJumper]

About the Fuel Measuring Sender, when it is not functioning correctly what are the symptoms.  Will it sit on empty, or will it read entirely full?

[JetJumper]

Test Drive #1

For the first test drive its pretty good, I couldn't do much because I am only runing on 2 brakes, the other line isn't fixed yet.  Motor is good, but I can't tell the temp because the gauge isn't working for the temp, speed

Pictures are still on Standby

[JetJumper]

The spedo isn't work... When you turn the key on it should reset to the 0 position right?  WEll mine isn't.  Could it be that it is getting no voltage? or something else???

[dguy]

The spedo isn't work... When you turn the key on it should reset to the 0 position right?  WEll mine isn't.  Could it be that it is getting no voltage? or something else???

Hi Chris,

It sounds like you're having instrument panel problems in general, not just the speedo.

Assuming that you've already checked all your fuses  , another relatively easy thing to is to pop the instrument cluster out of the car, and clean & check all the contacts of all the plugs & sockets.

For the sockets on the instrument cluster I find the easiest thing to clean them with is a good old fashioned pencil eraser.  Seriously.  You don't need to use one of those super-abrasive ones, just the good ol' pink rubber on the end of a cheap pencil will do it.  The contact surface of the copper traces should have a dull sheen when it's clean.

For the plugs from the wiring harness, aerosol electrical contact cleaner is sometimes all that's needed.  If the contacts are very dull-looking, I'll fold up a piece of 200 or finer grit sandpaper into the needed shape, and give the contacts a gentle scrub until the metal looks clean & shiney.

For the paranoid, apply a little dielectric grease to one set of contacts before you hook everything up again.

While you have the instrument pod out, take the time to look for cracked or otherwise broken traces on the back of the cluster, loose or broken wires in any of the plugs from the wiring harness, etc.

Give it a shot and let us know if there's an improvement.