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Ottawa Fiero Club Forum  |  General  |  Mods  |  Topic: Nose job « previous next »
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Author Topic: Nose job  (Read 12273 times)
dguy
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Got vacuum. Want boost.


« Reply #30 on: August 25, 2003, 08:08:14 am »

edited because the attachment didn't take the first time

The tray has been bent into shape, welded in to place, and I installed the battery & completed the wiring yesterday.  It's a funny thing--the turns over much faster now with the proper sized battery in there as opposed to a 425CCA lawn tractor battery.   Grin

I can't comment on any changes in handling with the battery weight now as far forward and low as possible, as there are a number worn components in the front end which like to mask most other sensations.   Roll Eyes

In any case, my heartfelt thanks go out to:
  • 2ML67 for bringing the nose up from Peterborough, and giving me the idea to relocate the battery in the first place.
  • aaron88 for a masterful bout of late night bending & cutting.
  • fiero308 for taking some time out of the middle of the day to weld the sucker in place.
  • FieroBUZZ for not running over that intact spare tire tray with his lawnmower after all.
A number of people whom I've spoken with on- and off-line expressed an interest in the dimensions of the tray.  I'll post a follow-up later today with them...
« Last Edit: August 25, 2003, 02:36:15 pm by dguy » Logged

1984: Track car project.
1985 SE: Dead 2.8, stalled L67 swap.
dguy
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Got vacuum. Want boost.


« Reply #31 on: August 25, 2003, 09:20:15 am »

Here be the measurements.  Please excuse my drawing skills--I ain't no architect, and MS Paint ain't AutoCAD.   Wink

A full-size battery fits like a glove, with just enough room for top-post terminals.  There is also sufficient room to use side-terminals if you trim away some of the body metal to the left or right of the tray.

Other useful info:
  • RH horn element had to be relocated.
  • Headlight, RH side marker, and horn wiring had to be re-routed.
« Last Edit: June 04, 2004, 09:32:56 am by Don Guy » Logged

1984: Track car project.
1985 SE: Dead 2.8, stalled L67 swap.
fiero308
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« Reply #32 on: August 25, 2003, 11:14:07 am »

i think that is a MASTERful drawing.  Really. Very good; I was expecting something .......less.
I also think it is great that you posted the info in a way that pretty much anyone can use it; I have been 'victimized'....... Undecided in the past by articles that glossed over some pretty critical info.
Thanks for posting it and sharing!!! Smiley
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aaron88
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« Reply #33 on: August 25, 2003, 12:11:49 pm »

I think it’s also notable that the sides aren’t exactly bent at 90°.  There is a slight taper on it.  Meaning that the mouth is larger than the base.  This is important for placement, “It’s much easier to get the peg in the hole if it has a slight taper”.  Even if it’s less that one degree. Wink

Aaron

.
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Your only limitations are set from within, by a lack of vision.  But to have vision alone leaves the process idle.  Ergo, without action your thoughts are worthless.
GoFast85
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« Reply #34 on: August 26, 2003, 09:46:14 am »

Grats for the fine job. Hope that this gets out to people that want an alternative to the "tire mount". Now time to get mine started.
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mr.tourismo
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« Reply #35 on: May 28, 2004, 05:21:42 pm »

nice, man
    i love the idea.....  although i was told that on every foot of wire to the battery u lose a certan amount of voltage or something like that.... do u know if by relocating ur battery to the front of the car u lose voltage? Huh
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GoFast85
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« Reply #36 on: May 31, 2004, 09:52:44 am »

The trick is to use a larger diameter cable.
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dguy
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Got vacuum. Want boost.


« Reply #37 on: May 31, 2004, 10:09:00 am »

    i love the idea.....  although i was told that on every foot of wire to the battery u lose a certan amount of voltage or something like that.... do u know if by relocating ur battery to the front of the car u lose voltage? Huh

Partially correct.

Just about every wire you'll ever get your hands on has a certain amount of resistance over a given length.  Generally speaking, larger gauge wires have less resistance per foot than smaller gauge wires.  From what I've seen, most people who go with a remote battery installation use 4GA or larger cables.
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1984: Track car project.
1985 SE: Dead 2.8, stalled L67 swap.
GoFast85
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« Reply #38 on: May 31, 2004, 12:20:29 pm »

I think I bought size 00 which is 2# larger sizes than 4. No such thing as overkill Cheesy 
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BERKELUSA
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« Reply #39 on: May 29, 2005, 01:02:09 am »

It's a funny thing--the turns over much faster now with the proper sized battery in there as opposed to a 425CCA lawn tractor battery.   Grin

What about dual batteries wired in parallel mounted in the nose the same way you made yours?

Yeah it's funny a little lawn-mower battery can start the Fiero, But two would also probably be less weight than the single monsters they sell for the car..

Two six-volt batteries wired in series would actually be better than a single 12-volt unit..

With 2 seperate batteries they even out the HIT of the drain when your turning the key..

Like Peter holding up Paul because Mary's been hitting him hard !

DONT CLICK THIS:http://www.ammoman.com/Fiero

Glad to be here!
Rob
« Last Edit: May 29, 2005, 01:43:40 am by BERKELUSA » Logged
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