Stripped a lug nut

[87se_fiero]

I'm attempting to do the brakes on my 87 Fiero SE and in taking off the first tire I stripped one of the lug nuts. It's now nice and round and the tire iron that comes as standard issue with the Fiero just spins round and round.   Would you guys have any inspiration as to how I should go about removing it? Thanks. Etienne.

PS on a completely different topic do you know if a cat converter for a Fiero is supposed to be empty, em, hollow? I assume not... If it's empty it's either been emptied or the stuff inside just burned off in little chunks. Do you think that it would pass the emissions test that way? Probably not I'm thinking...

[FieroAlex]

That happened to me on my 87 SC, I had to go to the garage and they changed the stud. I believe they had to torch the nut off and punch out the old stud..
cheers

[Mr. Tibs]

Just saw a tool at auto parts extra, that takes off stripped lugnuts. The price was $118 on special. That might be cheaper than torching the nut & stud off, and replacing them. Especially at a garage. Check out both options.

[FieroAlex]

are you sure its the nut thats stripped and not the stud that broke offof the supporting disc?

[JetJumper]

for your cat question, if you are going to take it to have it etested...I recommend putting a cat on.  $70 for mine and it made it pass with flying colours the second etest.  First one it failed with stock empty cat.

[87se_fiero]

are you sure its the nut thats stripped and not the stud that broke offof the supporting disc?

Yep, it's definitely the nut. The metal on those nuts appears to be very soft. I'm just imagining if this had happened on the side of the road in the country far away one very dark night...

[87se_fiero]

for your cat question, if you are going to take it to have it etested...I recommend putting a cat on.  $70 for mine and it made it pass with flying colours the second etest.  First one it failed with stock empty cat.

Thanks Chris. Does that mean that the stock cat is normally empty? It's there just for show then? Where did you get your cat for 70$ is it one of those universal ones? Were you able to install it yourself with just clamps or was this s garahe welding job. Thanks.

[fiero308]

be careful if you are going the torch route!!!!  do you have aluminium or steel wheels?  You might consider a cutting wheel or two on a grinder; ie a common 4 1/2" grinder and then very carefully cut away the nut and stud.
Once off it is pretty easy to replace.
You can buy a cheapo grinder at Walmart for about $35 or so; cutting (not grinding) wheels are thin and cut into the metal but be careful with them; you can't "LEAN" on them too hard or they break at a pretty high RPM

good luck!!

[JetJumper]

I got my cat from a performace shop in ottawa.  I can't remember the name of the place, but it came to $80 something with all the taxes in  Universal one.  Then I bought 2 pipes to pipe it in then my dads friend has a welder.  He welded and clamped it for me.

And no to start off they are not empty, someone either emptied it, or they cooked themselves out.  

[dguy]

I agree with fiero308--if you have aluminum wheels, a torch is not a good idea.

Gary's famous angle grinder, or a dremel tool with cut-off wheels should be able to reach in there, and allow you to cut & split the nut.  Just remember that if you gouge up the stud in the process, be sure to replace it.

Another method you might wish to try, is find yourself an impact-grade socket which is marginally smaller than the rounded off nut.  Grab a 5lb sledge, and beat the socket on to the nut.  Then attach your favorite breaker bar to the socket and have at 'er.

Good luck!

[ddroger]

Two thoughts:

#1 - Some GM lug nuts (i.e. - my '89 Cavallier) are really two pieces; an outer cosmetic shell and an inner, smaller nut. You may be able to get the outer shell off & find the inner nut is good enough to grip with a socket.

#2 - If there is good access to the whole length of the nut, I have a "nut splitter" that will split the nut without damaging the stud. If you can drive the car, swing 'round & we could try it

Don

[87se_fiero]

Well I was able to remove it! Bought a set of Sears Craftsman stripped nut remover (it is like a spiral inside and grips as you turn into the nut), borrowed a large 1/2" ratchet from the neighbor, fiddle with the height of the car so the tire is steady on the ground and voila! Thank you everyone for your excellent suggestions. This method did damage the aluminium wheels, but just a bit. They are quite corroded anyways...

So now I have taken off the two front wheels and started on one of the back ones [to continue my attempt to change the brakes]  and I found the the middle portion of the rotor (where there was a cap and castle nut & bearing on the front one) does not have a cap and is totally corroded. How do I take the rotor off??? Etienne.

[dguy]

The rear rotors aren't held in place the same way as the front.  The front rotors on the pre-88s are a complete rotor/hub assembly, which mounts over a stationary spindle.  Remove the caliper, cotter pin, castle nut, washer, outer wheel bearing, then grab the rotor with both hands and pull straight out from the side of the car...

The rear rotors OTOH are simply slipped on over a rotating hub which holds the wheel studs, and is further connected to the driveshaft.

Once you remove the rear wheel and the caliper, the rotor should come off with a simple pull straight out away from the hub.  If it's badly rusted it may help to soak the area where the studs protrude through the rotor with penetrating oil.

In some cases the rotor may also be held loosely in place with what looks like a cheap nut made from stamped sheet metal.  The "nut" will be at the base of one or more wheel studs.  If they're there, just break the darn things off and forget about them.